Garment construction



March 18, 1952 A. A. GoLDs-rElN GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed 0G13. 7, 1948 Patented Mar. l18, 1952 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE '2,589,367 GARMEN T CONSTRUCTIGN Aaron A, Goldstein, Philadelphia, Pa., assignor to Coat Craft Company, Philadelphia, Pa., a corporation of Pennsylvania Applicationctober 7, 1948, Serial No. 53,170

1 Claim.

' Y l Y The present' invention relates generally to improvements in the construction of outer garments for children,` such as overcoats and the like, and more particularly to an improvement in the bottom hem construction thereof, it being among the principal objects of the present invention to facilitate ready and convenient lengthening of the garmentwhen occasion requires.

Among the improved objects of the present invention are to provide an extensible hem at the bottom of a coat which is neat and simple in its construction and appearance; which is so arranged as to eliminate any noticeable bulge in the hem when in its original or extended condi- "'tion; which is of normal appearance in its original construction, that is, prior to extension thereof; and which, even when extended to lengthen the coat, is of neat and inconspicuous appearance.

A further object of the invention is to provide an overcoat or other such outer garment of the type having an inner lining which hangs freely at its bottom edge with an auxiliary lining strip which is normally folded upon itself to overlie the inner fold of the original hem to conceal the same and which is adapted to be extended in such manner as to constitute an inner suspension for the-newly formed hem when the coat is lengthened at the same time that it serves as a con tinuation of the lining of the garment when the hem is extended to lengthen the coat, the auxiliary lining strip being at all times permanently secured at opposite edges thereof to the main body fabric of the garment so as to completely cover the inner portion of the body fabricand so provide conjointly with the main inner lining a complete lining for the lengthened coat.

With the foregoing and other objects which will be apparent hereinafter, it will be understood that the present invention consists substantially in, the combination, construction, location and relative arrangement of parts, all as will be described in detail hereinafter, as shown in the accompanying drawings and as finally pointed out in the appended claim.

In the accompanying drawings which illustrate the principles of the present invention; Figure 1 is a fragmentary view of an outer garment, such as an overcoat, embodying the present invention, a portion of the main inner lining thereof being broken away in order to display some of the details of construction;

Figure 2 is a sectional view taken along the line 2-2 of Figure 1;

Figure 3 is a View corresponding to Figure 2,

but showing the garment `in its extended or lengthened condition;

Figure 4 is a sectional view taken along the line 4-4 of Figure l; and

Figure 5 is a sectional view corresponding. to Figure 4, but showing the parts of the lengthened coat as taken along the line 5-5 of Figure 3.

Referring now to the drawings, it will be observed that the main body portion I0 of the overcoat is provided at its lower edge with an upwardly turned hem II, this hem being continuous with the main body portion I0 toprovide therewith a folded bottom edge I'2. which may be suitably creased as by pressing. .'Ihevertical edges of the main body portion of the garment are provided, as is customary, with an inturned flap or panel i3 at each side thereof to provide a finished appearance to the overlapping portions of the garment, which portions may be provided, if desired, with buttons and button holes in accordance with conventional practice.

The inner lining I4 of the inner garment-is preferably of the type which hangs freely at its bottom edge, the vertical side edges of the lining being secured to the corresponding edge of the coat, as by vertical lines of stitching I5, such construction being conventional in garments of this type. Preferably, the lower edge of the inner lining I4 is inturned upon itself with the folded portions thereof secured together by lines of stitching I6 to provide a hem having a folded bottom edge Il. In the garment of the present invention, this bottom edge I 'l of the inner lining extends to the same point regardlessv of whether the garment b'e of vits original length, as shown in Figures land 2, or of its extended length, as shown in Figure 3... l

In accordance with the presentinvention, an auxiliarylining strip I8 is interposed between the outer vmain body portion II)V of the garment and the free edgeof the upturned hem I I, this auxilia'ry lining "strip being normally folded upon itself, as at I9, to provide a depending flap overlying the inner surface of the hem II. Preferably, the depth of the freely extending doubled portion I9 of the auxiliary lining strip is such that its lower edge 20 is substantially coincident with the lower edge Il of the main inner lining horizontally extending edge of the auxiliary linthereto. .3, to lengthen the coat the edges of the two pieces of material secured together by the stitches 22 ing strip I8 is permanently secured to the main body portion I of the garment `by lines of stitching 2l, while the opposite horizontally extending edge of said lining strip is permanently secured to the free edge of the hem lI I by lines of stitching 22. The intermediate portion of the auxiliary lining strip is folded upon itself, as above described, to overlie the inner surface of the hem II, the folded portion of the auxiliary lining strip being suspended freely in overlying relation to the hem II by a line of stitching 23 of a character not noticeable upon the outer surface of the garment and adapted to be readily removed without injury to the fabric, such ,stitching being known as tacking.

In its normal condition, as when the garment is originally manufactured, the auxiliary lining strip I8 is disposed in its folded relation, as shown in Figure 2, in which condition the relatively deep hem II is secured to the outer body fabric I0 by the relatively invisible, readily removable line of stitching 23. This same line `of stitching 23 'also maintains secured together and to the hem II the overlapping folded portions of the auxiliary lining strip I8. The -freely depending doubled portion I9 of the auxiliary lining lstrip I8 thus serves as a facing for the hem I I and in turn is covered by the main inner lining I4. Thus, in the garment as originally made up or manufactured, the auxiliary lining strip I8 is concealed from view with the result that both externally and internally the hemmed bottom of the coat is of normal appearance.

When it is desired to lengthen the coat, it is merely necessary to rip out the removable line of the blind stitching 23, whereupon the hem I I will drop into its lowered position, as shown in Figure 3, the upper edge of the hem being, however, still coupled to the outer body portion I of the garment by the auxiliary lining strip I8 which is then fully extended as most clearly appears in Figure 3. It will be observed that when so extended the auxiliary lengthening strip I 8 extends below the bottom edge I'I of the main lining I4 of the garment, but this is in no sense objectionable because by forming the strip I8 of a material which is the same as or which matches that of the lining I4, the exposed portion of the strip I8 appears as an extension of the lining.

It is important tov note that in the garment as originally made up or manufactured in accordance with the present invention, as shown in Figure2, the upper free edge of the hem is permavnently secured to the corresponding edge of the auxiliary lining strip I8 by the lines of stitching 22 without any binding or finishing tape applied When the hem is dropped, as in Figure are disposed interiorly of the overlying portions i of the body fabric I0 and the lining strip I8, thereby dispensing with the need of any binding 4 or finishing tape along the lower edge of the lengthened garment.

It will be apparent that the present invention is not limited in its application to the herns of coats, but may be employed also with good effect to lengthen coat sleeves and the like, the lengthening being obtained in all applicable instances without any sacrifice in neatness and appearance of the garment, both in its original and altered state. In either condition of the garment, the auxiliary lining strip is of such character and so arranged that it introduces no excessive bulk in the region of its application and when the garment hem is pressed there is no external evidence of the presence of the strip.

It will be understood, of course, that the present invention is susceptible of various changes and modifications which may be made from time to time without departing from the general principles cr real spirit thereof, and it is accordingly intended to claim the same broadly, as well as specifically, as indicated by the appended claim.

What is claimed as new and useful is:

In a garment construction of the character' described, an outer main body member having a portion turned back against itself to provide the same with an inwardly turned hem along its bottom edge, a main lining for said body member having a freely extending lower edge, and an auxiliary lining strip folded upon itself and di.;- posed between said inwardly turned hem of the main body member and said main lining to overlie the exposed face of said inturned hem, one edge of said folded lining strip being secured to said main body member by a permanent line ofy stitching spaced above the inner edge of said inturned hem and the opposite edge thereof being permanently secured to said inner edge of said hem to thereby dispose the permanently secured-together edges of said hem and lining strip between said main body member and said lining strip, and a readily removable line of stitching arranged at an elevation above the free lower edge of said main lining and below said Dermanent line of stitching for quick-detachably securing said secured-together edges of the hem and lining strip to said main body member.

AARON A. GOLDSTEIN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the le of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,643,159 Greenberg Sept. 20, 1927 1,761,886 Haspel June 3, 1930 2,426,500 Goldstein Aug. 26, 1947 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 488,881 Great Britain July 15. 1938 

